It has long been a plan to climb a graded climb at each of the tors of Dartmoor. Every year I say it, every year I move one step nearer or maybe two. This year it has been Ingra Tor and Leedon Tor added to the still very short list of achievements. The guide book doesn’t offer much to choose from so when it came to Ingra Tor I went with the quite bold and somewhat delicate: The Boyz are Back In Town – VS 4c.
Somewhat hidden in the damp/dark Ingra Tor quarry on the north side of the hill and then possibly quite easily missed the crag is a flat slab of quarried granite that offers little protection but an itriguing line. Starting at the right of the slab at a slanting vertical crack the line follows the disappearing crack up and towards the left. The top-out is interesting as ground fall beckons, just as the good handholds diminish.
Apparently the best climb at Ingra Tor is the boulder problem on the main tor’s North East face: Crimpanzee f5+. I’ll be back to prove that I’m not just Tor hunting.
Tor as defined in many dictionaries as a noun that comes to mean:
- a hill or rocky peak
- a rocky pinnacle; a peak of a bare or rocky mountain or hill.
- a high rock or pile of rocks on the top of a hill.
Origin of Tor
Tor is derived through Old English in the form of torr. It extends back at least to the 12th century and is perhaps of Celtic origin. Other local languages with similar sounds and meanings are; Welsh tor ‘belly’ and Scottish Gaelic tòrr ‘bulging hill’.
Great name for a set of rocks. My choice is limited as the Ordnance Survey has (so far) failed to plot these rocks on the 1:25000 Explorer maps. That being, they have taken to be known by the effectionate name of the ‘Miniscule Sausage Area‘ (SX 2572 6933). It is the name provided in the latest Climbers Club climbing guide to Dartmoor, and as far as I’m concerned it will now stick. How long before OS have to accept that the rocks exist and have to name them as per the choice provided by the nation. Not quite ‘Boaty Mc-B’ but potentially a name to be presented to the cartographer when Dartmoor is next re-surveyed and they find the missing rocks.
Miniscule Suasage Area, Eastern profile
The photograph is of the eastern profile of the Miniscule Sausage. The western profile is even more impressive but not as accessible when the bracken has grown in June. Good low-grade bouldering is available at this crag, mostly on the western face however the two tallest blocks in the centre of this image provide a rather satisfying F4 problem with a relatively good landing.